I woke up about 9.00 this morning and got online to talk to some friends who stay up late sometimes (Moscow is 9 hours ahead of CST where I lived, so it was midnight), but didn't have much in the way of affairs to deal with today and had nothing really scheduled except a vague desire to get out of the house at some point. I went back to sleep about 10.00 or so and woke up again about 14.00 or so to a text from Natasha, and realized how late in the day it was. Even when you spend a day relaxing, there's no good reason to spend the whole day asleep. Still, I'm still finishing the last stages of my recovery and so I permitted myself the luxury of not worrying about it since it was the first good night of sleep I'd gotten in about 2 weeks; the hotel bed in Saratov last week afforded me little opportunity to get any real sleep as well, and the only sleep I did get was because Natasha walked me all over God's creation until I was so exhausted I just fell over (don't feel bad, Dear... I enjoyed every minute of it).
That being said, I took into account that I wanted to meet some friends and since it was raining, travel to Moscow would be slower than usual on account of slower traffic. I estimated leaving at 15.00 and wanted to get to Novy Arbat, which requires switching trains twice, so I estimated arriving at the station around 16.30. The trip wasn't terribly eventful except that there was a group of girls in their late teens on the shuttle and they noticed me reading a book in English and stared at me the entire trip, which made reading a bit ... awkward.
This was the first time I'd gotten a chance to really wear my jacket Natasha and Lena had helped me pick out in appropriate conditions that actually required me to fully zip and fasten the snaps, and it worked wonders. Despite being a thin jacket I didn't have any problem with the cold, and of course I didn't feel smothered the way you sometimes do with heavier jackets, so it was absolutely perfect. Thanks a ton, girls. Dear guys everywhere: I don't care if you think you're good at shopping, you'll never be as good as women; they just have more experience. If you have the opportunity to let them help you, take it.
When I arrived in Moscow, I had an interesting experience. For some reason I couldn't explain, people were being incredibly pushy today. When you're waiting for a train in the metro, you stand back from the platform. There are two lines on the ground, and you stay behind the second one. One the train has passed you, even if it hasn't stopped yet, you step up to the first line which is maybe 10cm (~4 in.) from the edge of the platform. Usually even on the busy platforms where there are hundreds of people waiting for each train, people more or less give you some room. It is understood that older women, then younger women, then older men, then younger men get seats. Everyone knows this, and most abide by it; most people don't get too pushy because of it (with the occasional exclusion of old women pushing ahead of each other, young girls pushing ahead of each other, etc..).
But today, I flat out got shoved out of the way a few times by young girls for no reason whatsoever and actually had to push back for breathing room because they were crushing me. One young girl almost knocked this old woman out of the way to get a seat, and I was waiting for the older woman to slap her for being an insolent brat (she didn't ... sad face). Then, there's a standing order in the trains. There's a pattern to which side of the train the doors open and after riding the same train a couple of times you learn which platforms open on which side of the train. As a general role, most platforms are all on the same side of the train, and so when you get into the train, if you're getting off soon, you stay near the door, and if you're going to be on for a while, you either stand in front of the opposing door, or go down the isles between the doors.
I guess I stood in this woman's spot and I just didn't ride this particular train often enough to know it though. There were only maybe a hundred people on our car, and there was easily 40 places she could have stood. But no, she wanted to stand where I was in front of the opposing door... on the left... not on the right. So I get on the train, I back against the wall to allow others to board, and she walks up and shoves me against the wall and then leans against me like I'm the damn wall. She didn't seem to do it out of anger, and as is common in Russia, didn't even acknowledge my existence. She just walked up and crushed me as if she was literally completely oblivious to my existence. I had no idea what to do and so I just stood there until she got off at the next station. Why she didn't just stand in front of the door like everyone else that was getting off at the next stop, I'll never know. Maybe I just look comfy? Anyways. I haven't the slightest idea what all that was about, but I hope this isn't going to become common.
Speaking of transport, I thought of something today from last week that I forgot to mention in Saratov. I had mentioned that people in Moscow are more or less used to hearing English speakers occasionally and don't typically give you a second glance, but that Saratov is a bit more removed from tourist areas, and the people tend to stare a bit more. I forgot to mention an incident on the bus when Natasha and I were speaking, and a guy that was sitting behind us gave up his seat so he could walk around and stare directly at my face. He was literally no more than 45cm (roughly a foot and a half) from my face, making 0 effort to hide the fact that he was staring at me. It was super creepy and he just stood there staring and texting someone with one hand for a good 5 minutes. When he got off he stared back at the bus as it drove off. If I hadn't known better I'd have thought he was texting the government to tell them he'd spotted an alien. It was a super strange experience.
So I get to Novy Arbatskaya and I head left towards the underground. I've been here before with Ksana and so I know the street. She isn't fond of it for the same reasons I AM fond of it. It's busy. I typically am not a big fan of busy in America, but this I like. I'm a people watcher, and in Russia, where I still don't have a firm grasp on their thought process, crowds like this are fun. Most streets in Moscow are pretty wide, and the traffic is typically pretty heavy, and so most streets over 2 lanes have an underground entrance on either side so you can cross under traffic to cut down on the amazing number of traffic related fatalities in Russia that occur each year (is anyone surprised with traffic and roads like this? I'm not).
Sometimes when you go into the underground it'll branch off and head in different directions to get you to different sides of multiple streets and there are usually lots of shops down here, so you have to keep a sense of which direction you're headed while trying to not be distracted by shiny things people are selling. Made it through the first underground without incident and got down the bookstore. Crossed under a second underground and heard a woman singing just before I was nearly assaulted. Everyone has seen performers on the sides of the street in big cities with their instrument case open for tips. No no, that's not aggressive enough for Russia. Apparently each artist has a personal body guard to take peoples' money here. This guy walks up to me with his hat turned upside down and stands directly in my path. I try to walk around him, he moves to intercept me. I move the other way, he moves to intercept me again. Eventually I have to look him straight in the eye and stare him down to get him to move. I have never seen anyone so aggressive about their music before... I guess child support was due soon (by the way, child support works very differently here, and how any woman manages to raise a child on the inconsequentially insignificant amount of money men are supposed to pay here I have no clue, but that's a story for a different time).
I also saw a woman driving faster than a car that old should have been capable of and she was swerving around all over the place because the roads were obviously wet. I doubt she survived to the end of the day, but it reminded me of something I was told. Although you don't see them anymore, women drivers used to put a little red shoe on their bumper to signify to other drivers that there was a woman behind the wheel... caution. Please take careful account of the words I used there. I didn't say they were required to .. I said women put the stickers on. Why, I don't pretend to understand. Maybe so they could get away with more? Oh, my bad... but look at the sticker! I warned you I'm a woman! What do you expect? I just really don't know how to react to that. That women would choose to do that seems incredibly foreign to me... but then I guess I am in a foreign country, so that makes sense I suppose.
The reason Arbatskaya is so crowded is because it's the place to be. They have T.G.I. Friday's, Chili's, The Hard Rock Café: Moscow, Dunkin Doughnuts, all the cool American stuff. There are 2 Arbat's actually, that run next to eachother; Old Arbat, and New Arbat (Arbat vs Novy Arbat, respectively). The new one is where I went today, and the old one has lots of street performers around, lots of spectacles and fun things to do. Both are crazy tourist traps where stuff is exorbitantly expensive, and really, although a fun place to visit, leave your wallet at home so you're not tempted.
I also noticed a huge different in entertainment. In the US, we have... well, television. With 18 trillion channels, why leave the house? Order a pizza, take your pants off and download some Netflix. Here, real traditional entertainment is still very much appreciated and theaters are common. I'm not talking about a Movie theater, but real performance halls with stages for live performances by theater companies. Whereas in the US, when I used to go to the Opera House maybe once or twice a year for a performance, and the groups would perform for a week and move on to a new city, here, you have a schedule on the wall of what is being performed each night. Each night of the week is different performance, and you can go every night and see a different play. The tickets are cheap, and the seats are nearly all full from what I've seen the few times I've been so far.
Orchestras and ballets are also still widely popular, performing in special conservatories that seems to be fairly common as well. As a general rule, I'd say most people like to stay out of the house when possible, and people here live a much more active lifestyle in all aspects. There are of course real movie theaters, and they are fairly common as well. I couldn't say if they're more or less popular than the real theaters as I haven't looked into the matter and have seen no figures of any sort, so I won't try to speculate.
Biking and roller skating are also tremendously popular I've noticed, and you're always seeing kids shoot past you on those little scooters with the handle bars. There are lots of bicycling and roller skating paths in parks and they're heavily used, and I don't think I know anyone that doesn't own one or the other. I grow more and more aware of why people think Americans are unhealthy every day.
Speaking of unhealthy, after I picked up my books and a new pair of headphones (mine started misbehaving yesterday, and I'm a total audiophile... this is not to be tolerated), I made my way back through the city in hunt for a McDonald's. I haven't eaten McDonald's in at least 4 or 5 years I'd wager, but I had a mad craving for a burger, fries, and some chicken nuggets. I still have no clue what so ever what french fries are called hear, but I told her I didn't speak Russian well, and went through the menu pointing at things saying, "that, large" and "that, small" and I was so hungry that the fact that I should be embarrassed never crossed my famished little mind.
I got back to the shuttle, and a woman sat on me. My first reaction was of course, "Dear God, please, if I'm invisible today, please make it stop.. please..." but she moved and apologized. She had her 2 small children with her and was carrying enough childrens' toys and supplies to fill the flatbed of an extended-cab pickup truck. She simply hadn't seen me over the monstrosity she was attempting to carry. Got home without further incident, enjoying the symphony that my new headphones provided, and smiling to myself that for all the little hiccups in life, it's still a pretty darn good life, and I've got no complaints.
I don't have any definite plans for tomorrow yet, so no promises on any big exciting adventures, but I promise I'll be back! I hope everyone had an awesome day! Take care, and see you tomorrow!